Foods of Florence

Culinary Collective in Florence

Tuscan

Nepitella: a Florentine aromatic herb for mushroom and meat dishes

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Aromatic herbs are the essence of Florentine cooking. Nepitella is a Tuscan wild herb that recalls mint with a hint of basil and oregano.

For centuries, Florentines have been adding aromatic herbs to foods and drinks in order to give them a more nuanced flavor. Besides rosemary and sage, one of the most typical Tuscan aromatic herb is Nepitella (often called nipitella), which is largely unknown outside the region. In English, it’s often referred to as calamint, although few people are familiar with it. A common staple in any Tuscan kitchen, nepitella is a wild herb that is mostly used in fall and winter cooking. It combines nicely with any mushroom dish, particularly soups and pasta sauces (it’s a must in funghi trifolati). The fresh sharpness of nipitella not only ads a unique and distinct flavor to mushrooms but also makes them more digestible. Its essential oils are in fact rich in healthy qualities that improve digestion and liver function. Nepitella is also great on roasted meats and vegetables.

Where to find nepitella in Florence?

Nepitella is hard to find in stores. If you want to try it, don’t miss the monthly Fierucola in Piazza Santo Spirito. Fierucola is an open air market that is held every third Sunday of the month in the heart of the Oltrarno. There you will meet Duccio Fontani and his colorful van. Duccio is the owner of Azienda Agricola Duccio Fontani, a Chianti farm, where he grows a wide selection of organic herbs and spices. Nepitella is one of them. Duccio doesn’t have a store of his own. You can buy his beautifully packaged herbs at local farmers’ markets around Florence. If you’re travelling through Chianti, you can also visit his organic farm in Castellina.

Azienda Agricola Duccio Fontani – Loc. Tregole, Castellina in Chianti

Helichrysum: a Tuscan substitute for curry

Helichrysum is a wild herb for cooking

Helichrysum is an evergreen plant that grows in the Mediterranean area. It is a powerful anti-inflammatory and has been used for centuries to fight stomach cramps, colds and coughs. Florentines add this Mediterranean herb to vegetables and meats to give them a spicy kick.

Helichrysum (in Italian, elicrisio or elicriso) used to be a common ingredient in Florentine cooking.  Although it has become increasingly hard to find in dishes served at restaurants in Florence, it still persists in Tuscan peasant cuisine. You’re likely to find it at osterias and trattorias in the Florentine countryside, particularly in Chianti. Here, helichrysum grows wild and it is used to give dishes a wonderful spicy aroma. I would describe its taste as reminiscent of curry, with a floral, bitter finish.

I usually buy dried helichrysum at the Piazza Santo Spirito Sunday market, where there are a few fabulous spice stands, including the one owned by Pierre Cusseau. He is a great connoisseur of herbs and spices and was the one who introduced me to the wonders of elicrisio. He always recommends to try the helichrysum he grows and dries on roasted potatoes. Just cut a few potatoes into 1-inch chunks. Sprinkle with coarse salt and black pepper and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Place in a baking pan and roast in a 220°C/428° F hot oven for 40 minutes. Remove from oven and add helichrysum. Toss and return the pan to oven and roast until the potatoes are tender and beginning to brown.

Helichrysum has an intense flavor and I like to add it to slow-braised sausages in place of fennel seeds. Traditional Florentine recipes also suggest its use in roasted meat and sautèed mushroom dishes. Add it to stews, soups and casseroles if you want to try authentic Florentine country cooking.

Helichrysum Tuscan herb